Last weekend, I took my first trip up to Clingancourt for the enormous flea market. It started in the 1880’s, when les Pêcheurs de Lune (night fisherman) went through the trash of the wealthy and sold it on the street for people looking for a deal.
On the weekend days, Saturday and Sunday there are anywhere from 2,500 to 3,000 open stalls, mostly all covered. It is open on Monday as well, but with limited vendors, and by appointment only.
It was amazing. Bric-a-brac sat next to museum worthy treasures! Here are some highlights:
Several years ago, Bon Appetit magazine printed an entire edition dedicated to Paris. One of the articles was regarding cold weather comfort food, and it was styled at this Marché. Having thought that this was such a lovely juxtaposition, you can imagine my surprise when around eleven or so, most tables had a cloth. The lunchtime smells filled the air. You could hear people rummaging through their odds and ends looking for un tire-bouchon (corkscrew) and the sounds of bottles opening.
Or this man, who was cooking meatballs on an antique…
I went to Chez Louisette, which turned out to be more lively than I had anticipated. Apparently, Edith Piaf used to sing here all the time, and her memory lives on. A constant set of chanteurs singing her songs.
Also, some impromptu talent. When I arrived, this group of men was finishing their first bottle (I think…) of champagne, and definitely polished off three more. I like to think they were celebrating the sale of an expensive piece of art or furniture.
It was nice to see the spirit of this great market. 🙂
At the end of the day, I had a great meal, some wine, and bought some crystals from an old chandelier for Christmas ornaments.
Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clingancourt
Rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen
Open: Saturday, Sunday and Monday (limited hours)
Metro: #4 Clingancourt or Bus #85